Service Hints

All people have different electrical and mechanical abilities. This chart is not meant to be used by persons who do not possess the ability to safely handle a test meter or the tools required to perform the repairs needed by your appliance. Please err on the side of caution and when in doubt, hire a professionally trained Technician to repair your appliance. We do not accept any responsibility for a misdiagnosis or the further damage to your appliance, property or person. These hints are merely a pointer into which direction you may be able to look in order to solve your problem if you have the skill to undertake the repair.

Dishwasher

Will not complete a cycle
- Move the setting one degree to see if it will continue. This may indicate the timer motor cam is worn.
- Test the timer for mechanical functions
- Check timer actions against timer cycle chart.
- If used, check your sani thermostat for tub contact or continuity.
- Check connections at timer for secureness.
- Check timer motor leads.
Will not fill with water
- See if the water supply is turned on and not blocked.
- See if the float or float switch is stuck.
- Check the water valve screen for blockage.
- Test the timer for power out to the water valve.
- Test the solenoid on the water valve for continuity.
Will not drain
- Check the drain valve for kinks or blockage.
- See if the timer is advancing to the drain cycle.
- See if the flapper valve or drain solenoid is operating.
- See if the drain impeller is worn or damaged.
Will not clean the dishes
- Test for water entering the unit.
- Test the water temperature in the dishwasher.
- Check that the pump is recirculating the water.
- Check the spray arm for a split in the side.
- Check the internal water flow gaskets for leaks.
- Make sure that the unit is draining after each wash.
- Make sure that the dishwasher is filling with enough water
- Ensure that the dishwasher is loaded properly.
- Try a different or fresh detergent.
Will not start
- Test your electrical supply to the unit.
- Test for power to the timer
Water leak at bottom of machine
- Test air gap for mineral deposits. This will cause the water to spray out of the air inlet.
- Test for cracks in the tub.
- Test the float switch seal.
- Test the heater element where it enters the tub. There are gaskets that can leak.Test the heater element where it enters the tub. There are gaskets that can leak.
- Test the hose clamps.
- Test the hoses for leaks.
Water leaking from the door.
- Test the corner seals and bottom dam seal.
- Test the door seal.
- Test for a loose or a bent door latch.
- Test for over-filling. This could be from the float switch.
- Test the spray arm for a split. If water sprays directly at the bottom of the door, it will create a leak.

Washer

Motor will not run
- Test the power to the motor
- Test timer connections
- Test water pressure switch
- Test wiring harness for broken or burnt wires
- Make sure pump will turn
Washer will not agitate
- Test belt or pump coupler
- Test motor and wiring to motor
- Test the spline inside the agitator. Sometimes it will strip.
- Test transmission gear box
- Test water pressure (level) switch
- NOTE: Washer may only agitate when tub is full of water
Washer will not function. The motor does not make a noise.
- Test power cord and connections to washer
- Test power supply at wall outlet.
- Test timer connections and contact points.
- Test water inlet valve
- Test water pressure or level switch
Washer will not fill with water
- Check for kinked inlet hoses, or plugged screens
- Test for power to the washer
- Test power supply at wall
- Test timer connections and contact points
- Test water inlet valve
- Test water pressure (level) switch
- Test water temperature switch
Washer will not spin
- Test belt or coupler
- Test motor
- Test pulley or coupler
- Test the pressure switch
- Test timer contact point
Water will not drain from the tub
- Test belt or coupler
- Test drain hose for kink or blockage
- Test pump pulley or coupler from motor to pump
- Test the lid switch for continuity and action
- Test the motor
- Test the pump
- Test the timer and contact points
- Sometime a garment will get trapped in the pump
Washer will not drain or spin, but does agitate
- Test lid switch
- Test water level switch
- Test pump
- Test drain hose
Washer is very noisy during spin
- Test spin bearings and/or superstructure of washer
Washer goes out of balance too often
- Test snubber assembly
- Test front or rear leveling legs
- Test suspension pads
- Test suspension plate
- Test suspension springs
- Test to make sure shipping straps are removed or have not tangled up in the system.
- Check tub support
Washer agitates intermittently
- Test agitate gear and agitate cam
- Test ball and thrust washer
- Test shift actuator and agitate cam
Washer spins too slowly, everything else works
- Test clutch
- Test for clothes between basket and tub
- Test spin bearings
Washer tries to agitate during spin
- Test agitate cam
- Test shift actuator
Washer will not agitate or spin, but the motor runs
- Test motor coupler
- Test worm gear and main drive gear
Washer will not agitate, but the motor runs, and it will fill and spin
- Test agitator shaft, agitate cam, cam followers and spring
- Test agitator spline
- Test connecting rack
- Test shift actuator and agitate cam
- Test worm gear and main drive gear
Washer will not agitate, spin, or pump out water. Motor will not run, but the washer fills
- Test motor and/or motor wiring harness
- Test the pump
- Test the timer
- Test water level switch
Washer will not drain, but will agitate, fill and the motor runsduring drain cycle
- Check drain hose for kinks or blockage
- Test pump for broken impeller or blockage
Washer will not fill, but it will agitate and spin
- Test fill valve
- Test timer
- Test water level switch
- Test water temperature selector switch.

Dryer

Clothes are not completely drying
- Test all air flow ducts for blockage
- Test all thermostats
- Test blower fan for proper air flow
- Test for belt slippage.
- Test heat selector switch
- Test heating elements for breaks
- Test lint screen
- Test switch mounted on motor
- Test timer
Clothes are too hot
- Test all thermostats
- Test heating element for shorts against surrounding can
Drum will not turn
- Test blower fan for frozen bushings.
- Test door switch
- Test drum belt
- Test drum bushings
- Test idler arm and wheel
- Test motor for power
- Test support rollers or pads
- Test timer
Dryer will not heat
- Test all thermostats
- Test circuit breakers or fuses
- Test heat selector switch
- Test heater element for breaks (Most Popular Problem)
- Test switch mounted on motor. Two of the terminals are for the heater element operation.
- Test terminals going to heater elements
- Test timer
Dryer will not run
- Test PUSH TO START switch
- Test connections from power cord to terminal block
- Test door switch
- Test power at outlet. Should read 110 or 220/240 volts
- Test timer for power
- Try door switch for action or clicking noise
Dryer will not shut off
- Test for power to timer motor
- Test sensors (on some models)
- Test thermostats
- Test timer motor for advancing
- Test timer switch - make sure it leads to timer motor

Range

Oven cooks uneven
- Test BAKE/BROIL switch
- Test door gaskets
- Test thermostat for temperature cycles
- Make sure cooking pans are placed in middle of rack
Oven temperature is wrong to thermostat setting
- Test broil element for staying on
- Test for broken thermostat bulb or tube
- Test for kink in thermostat bulb or tube
- Test oven door seal
- Test thermostat for proper operation
- Make sure thermostat bulb is not placed wrong in oven. Should be hanging from clip along top.
Surface units only get warm
- Test for low-voltage conditions
- Test plug-in blocks for burnt connections
- Test surface switches
- Test terminals on plug-in units
- Test wiring for burnt connections
Surface units will not heat at all
- Test continuity through element coils
- Test for power to range/oven
- Test switches for burnt terminals
- Test wiring from switch(es) to terminal blocks
- With power disconnected, check plug-in blocks for burnt terminal connections.
- With power disconnected, check surface elements for burnt terminal connections.

Refrigerator

Compressor runs all the time
- Test door gaskets
- Test for defrost heater staying on
- Test for interior light staying on
- Test thermostat for welded contact points
- Make sure refrigerator is not located in extreme heat.
- System may be overcharged or undercharged
Compressor runs for just a few seconds then clicks off
- Test compressor amperage draw and compare to the I.D. plate on the compressor body
- Test condenser fan
- Test for lint in condenser coils
- Test for low-voltage conditions
- Test freezer fan
- Test protective overload
- Test thermostat for short cycles
- Make sure back cover is in place
Evaporator coil blocked with ice
- Test defrost heater
- Test defrost termination switch
- Test defrost timer
- Test door seals
- Check for drain being plugged
Freezer is too warm
- Test for air flow restriction
- Test for defrost element staying on
- Test for iced-up evaporator coils
- Test freezer compartment fan
- Check freezer door gaskets
- Test thermostat
- Too much food in freezer
Refrigerator compressor runs but will not get cold
- Test for leaks
- Test for lint in condenser coils
- Compressor may not be pumping
- Defrost timer may be stuck on. Check defrost timer
- Refrigerant line could be restricted
Refrigerator will not run
- Check compressor
- Test defrost timer (frost free models)
- Test for low-voltage condition. This can be caused by extension cords. Remove and re-route if possible.
- Test power at wall socket
- Test power cord to refrigerator
- Test thermostat
- Test wiring to compressor

Range Hoods

Motor is noisy
- Check the fan blade for wear in the hub.
- Check the fan blade for a broken blade.
- Check to see if the motor bearings are worn out.
- Check to see if the air flow is plugged at the exit point.
Motor won't turn
- Check for power to the unit.
- Does the light work?
- Check for a loose connection at the junction box.
- Check the motor windings.
- Check the fan switch.
- Check the sensi-thermostat. (on some models).
Light won't turn on
- Try a new bulb.
- Check for power to the unit.
- Does the fan work?
- Check for a loose connection at the junction box.
- Check the light switch.

Freezers

Freezer runs but is warm
- Upright freezer door maybe ajar.
- Check gasket for a tear or leaking.
- Cold control may be set too low or has lost calibration.
- Sealed system maybe low on refrigerant, call a certified Technician.
Indicator light flickers
- Neon light probably needs replacing.
Compressor clunks on shutoff
- Internal mounting springs may be off, unit would need replacing by a certified Technician.
Ice builds up inside
- Check the lid / door gasket for tears or twisting.
- Check the magnet for sealing strength.
Lid won't stay up
- Check the hinge springs for tension.
- Check the hinge bushings for wear.

Video

Thanks to the video creator.

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